Road to the Smokies: The Little River Afternoon (Food for Thought)

by Tom Chandler on May 10, 2007

After the Hazel Creek backpacking trip ended on Sunday (and yes, a lot of laundry was done), Monday appeared.

What to do?

Hey — Good guess! Ian and I fly fished the Little River (later, Charity joined us on the river), but the story begins elsewhere. Indeed, it begins where all great fly fishing stories begin:

Lunch.

The Slaw Dog and MoonPie lunch
A box of heaven; four Phillips 66 slaw dogs and a pair of MoonPies.

Yes, Undergrounders, we visited that most hallowed of food establishments — the Townsend Phillips 66 gas station, where they act as if there signature food wasn’t world famous. In the age of Paris Hilton and whiny, entitled media stars, that’s refreshing.

The Phillips 66 Slaw Dog
The original Phillips 66 slaw dog. Note the chopped slaw.

This time, Ian introduced me to the ideal dessert topper to any slaw dog feast — the MoonPie. How does it taste?

After you’ve downed a couple slaw dogs, it tastes as if God himself had descended from the heavens and pointed his right hand at the Moon Pie factory. It’s so good that pictures like what follows are rare indeed:

MoonPie in its last seconds of life
Look quick; a MoonPie in its last seconds of existence.

The MoonPie isn’t widely available out here, but yes, you can mail-order these little delicacies, and read about the history of this little gem (it dates to 1917).

Sure, other blogs might fill their pages with largely useless fly fishing information, but here, you learn about the things that really matter, including the history of the MoonPie:

Early in the 1900s, while servicing his territory of Kentucky, Tennessee and West Virginia, Mr. Mitchell was visiting a company store that catered to the coal miners. He asked them what they might enjoy as a snack. The miners said they wanted something for their lunch pails. It had to be solid and filling. “About how big?,!” Mr. Mitchell asked. Well about that time the moon was rising, so a miner held out his big hands, framing the moon and said, “About that big!” So, with that in mind, Mr. Mitchell headed back to the bakery with an idea. Upon his return he noticed some of the workers dipping graham cookies into marshmallow and laying them on the window sill to harden. So they added another cookie and a generous coating of chocolate and sent them back for the workers to try.

You can find Nutritional Information about the MoonPie at Wikipedia, though frankly, you don’t want to know. You just want to enjoy the taste…

The Fishing

Ian and I fished the Little River — probably the most-fished water in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

If I described it as a smaller Upper Sacramento, but greener, I’d be wrong, but I’d be close enough to offer you a picture of the place.

Ian Rutter fly fishing the Little River
Ian Rutter chasing a nice Brown downriver. I didn’t have to do that.

Right away, we both hooked up with a pair of small rainbows, and things were looking good. Sadly, they continued to look good for only one of us; I struggled for the odd small fish while Ian did his best Purse Seiner imitation.

I won’t go into just how badly Ian outfished me (fly fishing’s not about numbers anyway, or at least that’s what I say when they aren’t in my favor), but then again, no day that involves slaw dogs and MoonPies could be wholly wasted.

Ian Rutter on fast water on the Little River
Ian highsticking fast water, where yes, he caught fish.

Later, Charity Rutter brought their 22 month-old daughter Willow along (Willow already loves to play in the river and prefers the Trout Bum Diaries II to her Barney videos), and we took a break while Charity caught a couple.

Charity Rutter on the Little River
Charity Rutter highsticking on the Little River.

Ian started turning over rocks — doing the kind of ongoing research that good guides always seem to do when they’re on the water — and we stumbled across some cool bugs:

Brown Stonefly nymph
A large brown stonefly nymph. (Take me to your leader)

Golden Stonefly nymph
A Golden Stone and the nymph imitation.

While I pretty much summed up the day by setting up on a good-sized Brown Trout on one of my last casts — and only turning him before the hook flew skyward — it was still a wonderful time on a gorgeous freestone river.

One day remained on my Tennessee trip. Where the hell was I going to fish? (How’s that for a TV-style teaser?) Tune in for the Final Installment.

[tags]fly fishing, fishing, tennessee, ian rutter, little river, stonefly, moonpie, slaw dog[/tags]

{ 18 comments… read them below or add one }

1

kbarton10 05.10.07 at 12:14 pm

With multiple slaw dogs and a Moonpie chaser, we already know where you spent the last day fishing…

The Porcelain Throne stretch of the Big Flushing river.

2

hawgdaddy 05.10.07 at 12:32 pm

I don’t know…from my experience, Moonpies can effectively dam things up for a spell.

3

Murdock 05.10.07 at 1:05 pm

Try putting the Moonpie in the microwave for about 10 seconds. Let it cool a bit then enjoy all its gooey goodness! Also they are best enjoyed with an RC Cola.

PS. My Doctor says that even reading these postings about slaw dogs is bad for my cholesterol.

4

Scott 05.10.07 at 1:28 pm

Yes damnit, but did you bring me BACK any slaw dogs liked I asked? (I asked nicely.)

Signed,

Your favorite brother, who likes you best of all of the other brothers.

5

ijsouth 05.10.07 at 3:29 pm

Moonpies have become a staple of Mardi Gras throws, along with beads and cups, etc…nothing like closing out the last day of Carnival with a moonpie and a glass of VERY cheap champagne.

Since the setting is fishing in Tennessee, the beverage choice would be something like PBR.

6

Will 05.10.07 at 6:15 pm

I agree with hawgdaddy - in the words of one of my students, “Your boys’re gonna be STUCK.” Of course, I’m not sure I’d want to find how right my student was…but if you must disclose such details, we’re here for ya…

When I get a computer to myself for longer than a second, I’ll tell more about my recent trip to the Au Sable.

7

Tom Chandler 05.10.07 at 7:16 pm

Stuck? Maybe if I was some slacker who ate moon pies and watched Beverly Hillbilly reruns all afternoon.

Nosiree, I ate my Moon Pies and then spent the rest of the day trying to follow Ian “Web Foot” Rutter up and down the Little River. There’s simply no question of stuck.

And as I said last year, I’m simply not risking a place on the Homeland Security “Watch List” for attempting to transport a bio-hazard on a plane. Cavity searches are too time-consuming…

8

ijsouth 05.10.07 at 7:48 pm

I guess one of these trips up there, I’ll have to fish Little River itself; I’ve been up 5 times since Thanksgiving, and I’ve fished all around there, but not in the main stem. I guess the fact that, because the road is right there, it gets pounded by some very good fishermen, and it comes across as a bit intimidating.

9

Megan 05.10.07 at 8:45 pm

I think there needs to be some slawdog merchandise…like shirts, hats, temporary tattoos, mouse pads, coffee mugs, etc. Thoughts? It could be the official mascot (er…sorta) of the Trout Underground. You can get your logo on anything you want at Cafe Press. Maybe you could pay for your bandwidth with the thousands of dollars generated, Tom. God I’m a marketing genius. Ooohh! How about International Slaw Dog Days? When will the genius stop?

10

Heddon17 05.11.07 at 7:57 am

Can you say angioplasty??

Though I suppose the resulting gas would greatly reduce the possibility of a fellow flyfisher crowding your spot…..

11

Tom Chandler 05.11.07 at 9:10 am

I suppose we should consider the slaw dog’s effect on Global Warming before making it the Official Artery Clogging Treat of the Trout Underground, but where’s the fun in that?

As for merchandise, I recently spoke to a very talented local artist about Trout Underground t-shirts, but stupid me, I thought a bunch of fly fishers would want fish fish on the things.

Clearly I was wrong. Mousepads? I dunno. But with Mother’s Day coming up, I’m sure the Trout Underground thong would have sold like hotcakes…

12

Murdock 05.11.07 at 10:23 am

Can you purchase methane offsets for slawdogs?

13

Tom Chandler 05.11.07 at 10:37 am

Methane offsets would be substantial. But I’m willing to avoid motorized travel for a couple days if it means enjoying one of my rich, tasty slaw treats.

ijsouth: Some parts of the Little River fish tougher than others. Last year I swear the trout around Metcalf were actually leader shy to 5x, and jumped all over the fly with 6x. Wondered if it was the drift, but damnit, we’re talking about a downstream presentation with drag.

Still, good fish in there and it’s rare that I don’t get bit on the Little River. Bigger problem might be the other fly fishers, especially in the evenings.

14

Harry 05.16.07 at 1:54 pm

Tom,

After all the talk about slaw dogs I am going to be forced to defend the Cincy areas own dog treat. The Skyline Cheese Coney. Talk about an artery clogger.

If you send me your mailing address I would be deligted to send you the key ingredients and instructions on how to make em.

Harry

15

Tom Chandler 05.16.07 at 3:15 pm

Harry: Best would be to share the recipe right here so the assembled Undergrounders could groan in unison.

That said, the Mr. Underground is… lactose intolerant, so cheesey items are unlikely to get a test drive.

16

kbarton10 05.17.07 at 6:03 am

http://www.skylinechili.com/menu.pdf

Yep, it’s a heart stopper.

17

Tom Chandler 05.17.07 at 6:27 am

Ahh! The Cheese Coney is like a slaw dog, but substitute mounds of cheese for the slaw.

An impressive monument to the cheesemaker’s art.

18

Harry 05.17.07 at 1:30 pm

Sorry about the intolerance problem! It’s a great dog. I see somebody already posted the address to skyline, you can get the recipe there, but the key ingredient is the skyline chili. I suppose one could have one without the cheese, but that would be like a slawdog without the slaw!

I like to add chopped sweet onions and a dose of hot sauce or some jalepenos. That can make for some serious consequences if you overdo it a little though. Great eating!

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