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Backcountry Brookies: Fly Fishing Seven Lakes Basin

Saturday’s hike into the backcountry forced me to ask myself why I don’t do this more often. In truth, it’s been a far better year than most in terms of backcountry fishing, and I’ve gotten my feet wet in a couple small streams and a bunch of alpine lakes.

Fly fishing alpine lakes brook trout
Meet the backcountry brookie - the Official Char of the Trout Underground.

Still, Saturday’s hike came at the expense of a trip or two on the Upper Sac, where the fish are apparently happily eating bugs, and for most, the calculus used to choose between 9″ brook trout and big Upper Sac rainbows leans towards the river - especially if there isn’t a lot of grunting and sweating involved getting there.

Regardless, Saturday morning found me loading my pack with a deflated float tube and enough gear to add 32 pounds to my already considerable tonnage. I was clearly looking at some work.

The hike in along the Pacific Crest Trail was payback enough; stunning views from both sides of the ridgeline, fall colors, and few signs of humanity (this last is hardly surprising - there are far easier places to catch brookies around here).

The Seven Lakes basin is small and heartbreakingly pretty, and making it even more attractive were the brook trout who ate my small wet flies within minutes of my arrival.

Brook trout and reflection (underwater)
A brookie underwater. Note the mirror image. Will the innovations at the Underground never end?

Later, when the midges came off in numbers and the rises grew frequent, I ran through the usual midge suspects before settling on a Palamino Midge, which worked to the point where it was shredded by better than a dozen brook trout and a Surprise Monster Bonus Fish - a 15″ rainbow who put together a pair of sizzling runs.

Upper Seven Lake
Bonus trout! A 15″ rainbow ate the midge. I have no idea where he came from.

Of course, if it was only about the fish, then I probably wouldn’t be there. The backcountry is always beautiful, and the sense of that is only heightened by the isolation.

I heard one ATV, but saw no people and encountered no boom boxes, pushy fishermen, or those loud domestic disputes that seem part and parcel of campground life these days.

backcountry color
Fall in the backcountry. Oh, the suffering…

I even fished a rod with an unusual history - an 8′ light-action 5wt fiberglass Steffen that was rolled in New Mexico, finished (poorly) in New York, bought online, broken the first time it was fished on the Upper Sac (last year this time), sent back to New Mexico for a new midsection, and then beautifully refinished by Rich Margiotta in Tennessee.

With all the traveling it had already experienced, it only seemed right to move it a little further up a mountain, along a trail, and down a ridge into a lake-filled basin.

After float tubing the lake for a couple hours, my lower body was cold and getting colder, and the last thing I needed was to freeze up my legs before the hike out.

So I got out and decided to warm up by hiking a hundred yards down to another smaller lake, and caught a pair of brookies there.

Right round that time (4:30), the temperature started dropping and some grey clouds rolled in, so I deflated the tube, re-packed my gear, and started the grunt up the ridge to the trail home.

backcountry fly fishing Upper Seven lake
Good-bye until next year? Maybe. This lake will be frozen all winter and a chunk of spring.

The colder weather only emphasized the warm, perfect weather I’d been enjoying, but with fall well underway, the window for any other backcountry fishing is starting to close.

There’s still time, but a cold snap at altitude can really turn off the fish, and with the river calling, it’s possible I’ve seen my last backcountry brookie of the year. See you somewhere, Tom Chandler.

Backcountry beautiful

[tags]hiking, PCT, brookie, brook trout[/tags]

12 Comment(s)

  1. C4C Raine | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    Outstanding post, and no I have no critical comments for this one. Seems like my hopes of hiking back there when I come home for Thanksgiving may not work out so well?! Good to hear that someone got up there to enjoy it though. By the way, do you know if Echo Lake is part of the Seven Lakes Basin?

  2. Tom Chandler | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    Echo is in the same basin, but my understanding is it’s privately owned and the owner is pretty cranky about trespassers.

    Hiking to Seven Lakes might be possible by Thanksgiving; the first big snow storm closes everything up there, but absent any big storms, I think the PCT could still be hiked.

    The fishing would likely be slow, but the hiking would be warming…

  3. C4C Raine | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    Is it just me or are guys generally the lesser of species when it comes to disputes? My girlfriend told me that Echo Lake was privately owned, and I decided to look it up but could find nothing that confirmed it - just a bunch of helpful articles on how to get there and how nice a place it is. Figures.

  4. the mad fishicist | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    Near as I can tell, you live very near where I’m going for Christmas this year.

    Ever fished near or around Burney (Hat Creek, Falls Creek…)?

    What about in December? You can imagine Alaska offers very little open water this time of year.

    Should I bring my rod?

    Thanks
    TMF

  5. Tom Chandler | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    @C4C: Correct. Guys bite hard in the dispute department.
    @TMF: Most of California’s rivers and streams close November 15. But bring a rod anyway. The Upper and Lower Sacramento Rivers are open year round, and are only an hour or less (in good weather) from Burney.

    Baum Lake - essentially a big spring creek - is also open in winter, and is minutes from Burney. That’ll be largely a baetis/midge game.

    There are a lot of other opportunities in the area, including a handful of nearby lakes.

    If you don’t bring a rod, you’ll be sorry. Nice blog.

  6. opax | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    I loved this post.

  7. opax | Oct 15, 2006 | Reply

    … but it was the mad fishicist blog that got me all sentimental. ;-)

  8. Tom Chandler | Oct 16, 2006 | Reply

    Glad you liked the post. I realized there are lots of details that got left behind - like how the fish rising in the shallow edges would eat pretty much anything, but those working in the deeper water were much pickier.

    Maybe I need to put together a “Fly Fishing the Backcountry” tip sheet. Maybe do that in my spare time… :)

  9. winehiker | Oct 16, 2006 | Reply

    Glad to know that the fishing at Seven Lake was as good as you suspected it would be the day you and L&T and Wally the Wonder Dog and the rest of us outdoor bloggers lunched along its shoreline. Those brookies are beautiful.

  10. Tom Chandler | Oct 16, 2006 | Reply

    It was even prettier than during the Blogger Hoedown hike. Sadly, I don’t know if I’ll make it back before the trail closes. They’re predicting snow at 5500 feet tonight…

  11. Mike | Oct 16, 2006 | Reply

    Been a follower of this blog from way up in Ontario, Canada for awhile. That pic of the brookie brought me out of lurk mode….it is one of the greatest release photos I have ever seen. (And I surf alot of the stuff while “working”!)

    Great job, and keep it up.

    Mike

  12. Tom Chandler | Oct 17, 2006 | Reply

    @Mike: Thanks. The waterproof digital should deliver some fun underwater pictures, but it’s totally a point-and-pray exercise. I shoot a lot, and see what comes out…

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