The Grand Lake Canoe: An Essay with Images
By Tom Chandler on Sep 8, 2006 in Lake fishing, Travel, Underground's Best, Writing
The Grand Lake Canoe still plys the waters of Grand Lake almost a century after its invention. Is there a better way to travel?
The Grand Lake Canoe doing what it does best…
Spend any time peering down driveways around the tiny town of Grand Lake Stream, and you’ll notice almost as many boats on trailers as cars, and that most of those boats are long, broad-beamed wooden canoes with an upswept bow.
But don’t make the mistake of simply calling it a canoe. You’re almost certainly looking at a Grand Lake Canoe (a “Grand Laker” if you’re into Maine guide slang), and suggesting that its roots run deep around the tiny town of Grand Lake Stream is to underestimate its connection to the area; the Grand Laker has big chunks of Grand Lake DNA directly wired into its genetic code.
The Guide’s Choice
Typically powered by a 9hp motor, it’s a craft that’s perfectly suited to guiding the lakes in the area, where the wind often blows and a lot of water needs to be covered, sometimes in a pretty mean chop.
Like most great tools, it’s a deceptively workable design, and while newer, high-tech boats might cover more water, there’s something irresistible about a wood canoe that’s so perfectly suited to its environment that it’s named for the lake upon which you’re currently fishing.
It even reflects Mainer frugality by fishing for several days on one small tank of gas.
And – unlike bigger boats – a Grand Lake canoe can successfully navigate the boulder-strewn shallows of the local lakes - where submerged boulders the size of houses rise eerily from the depths, often topping out at a keel-scraping inches from the surface.
(Watching a guide casually thread the big, broad-beamed canoe through a slot no wider than the boat itself is breathtaking stuff.)
In addition to negotiating boulder-strewn shallows, it also trailers well, launches easily on unimproved boat ramps, and moves a guide and a couple clients at surprising speeds despite the use of small-displacement motors.
It’s tempting to say that fly fishing from a Grand Laker is like a trip back in time, but that statement belies the sheer fishability of the craft. Like Western drift boats, it’s not still used because a bunch of backward locals can’t give it up, but because it does the job it was intended to – in most cases better than anything that’s come after it.
Nearly a Century of History
The first Grand Lake canoes were built just prior to the 1920s, and because there were no outboard motors, they were “double-enders” which were paddled by guides.
With the advent of the outboard motor came the square stern, and in the 1950s, the Grand Lake canoe underwent its final incarnation: the stern was strengthened (to accommodate bigger motors) and a fiberglass skin replaced the canvas exterior.
The result is a 20′ canoe that handles superbly, even with a guide, two clients, and a lot of gear. And despite their light weight, Grand Lake canoes are famous for their longevity.
It’s common to learn you’re sitting in a canoe that’s several decades old (last visit out I enjoyed the singular experience of fishing from a Grand Laker that was almost as old as I am, and one of the canoes in these pictures was built 30+ years ago).
The reliability of the Grand Laker is so deeply ingrained into the local zeitgeist that when an aluminum skiff flipped a couple years ago (it was late Fall, and a man and his son were lucky to be seen and rescued before hypothermia set in), a couple of locals sniffed that it “wouldn’t have happened in a Grand Laker.”
True or not, it’s a measure of the faith the locals have in the craft – and these are people who are on the big lakes when sudden, violent storms whip up some sizable waves, and get home to tell of it.
Clearly, Grand Lake canoe seems at home here because it is – and the same can be said for the guides who pilot them. You could say that they’re deeply sunk into the traditions of the area, but again, that’s an unnecessarily nostalgic view - unless your view of “fishing” necessarily means warp-drive boats, footlocker-sized tackle boxes, and a lot of yelling and screaming every time you land a fish.
Instead, the Registered Maine Guides – and their Grand Lakers - still do things pretty much the way they were done 50 years ago because nobody’s invented a better way to do it.
Technorati Tags: Grand Lake Canoe, Grand Lake Stream, Maine
rriver | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
TC,
Can you put one of those canoes in your luggage? (Just throw out your undies to make room for the canoe). I’ll pay you for them and the canoe when I pick it up. When should I stop by?
-rriver
Larry Swearingen | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
Hey Tom,
What IS the weight of one ? I would assume that you aren’t going to flip one up on the surf board rack.
You probably mean light as compared to a 20 foot fiberglass monster bass boat, right ?
Larry S
Tom Chandler | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
Sorry. I’d bring one back for you, but all my fishing gear puts me right at my luggage allowance, and just throwing out the one pair of underwear I brought wouldn’t do it.
As for weight, there’s no way one man could lift one. Yeah - they’re very light for a 20 foot craft capable of zipping three (even four) people around a lake with a 9 horse motor, but you do need a trailer for the things.
They don’t fit in a shirt pocket.
Sadly, the pictures don’t do the things justice. When you sit in one, you’re surrounded by all this warm, cozy wood. Sorta like looking down at your casting hand and seeing bamboo…
Tom Chandler | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
And oh yeah - that’s the L&T Nancy piloting the thing in the lead photo. Is that great or what? She’s ten times better at the canoe than I am, which gives me a great excuse to do nothing but fish…
rriver | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
Those canoes are beautiful, and as usual, so is the photography. You are always able to capture the essense of a subject with your composition.
Thanks for enduring my lame sense of humor.
I actually did a google to see if you could buy one. Not that I could find.
- rriver
HH | Sep 8, 2006 | Reply
Tom,
Thanks for the beautiful photos and a very well written piece.
HH
Bamboo Addict | Sep 9, 2006 | Reply
Tom, great pics and story. How do you think it would handle the Fall River? I just love wood boats of any kind.
David
local | Sep 9, 2006 | Reply
I don’t see many fish in the canoe pictures or even any equipment.
Tom Chandler | Sep 9, 2006 | Reply
Lots of comments, and I’ve only got a few minutes before the L&T Nancy and I head uplake on an all-day Grand Lake Canoe adventure (the river kinda bites right now, so we’re headed to a place where big smallmouth are rumoured to hide out….)
Dave; probably do OK on the Fall River, but it’s really a guide’s canoe for the lakes around here, which are big and can blow up pretty quickly in the wind.
And yes, you *are* a sucker for wood boats…
There are only two people making Grand Lake Canoes at the moment, and one of them - Chris Wheaton - only does it during the winter when the guiding is a bit slow.
Like good bamboo rods, these things represent a fair number of hours of work, so the price is typically in the $6K region (not including trailer). In another parallel to bamboo rods, apparently it’s not hard to build one, but the real trick is in building one that remains nice and straight after a couple years of use.
I wasn’t kidding about the longevity of these things; turns out *both* the canoes in the my pictures are closer to 40 years old than 30.
Naturally, that means keeping the varnish up, but you look at the boats the guides fish from all season long (season after season) and they’re doing fine.
The above-mentioned Chris Wheaton mentioned that he and his father (one of the originators of the current “pattern”) used to drive north and “get the wood” for the canoes they built together. (White Cedar is used for the interior.)
Leaving soon for more fishing, so later!
Moe Slayton | Sep 10, 2006 | Reply
Enjoyed your article.I am one of those fortunate few who owns a grand laker. It was built by a friend and Maine guide, Greg Drummond, almost 20 years ago at Pierce Pond outside North New Portland, Maine. I originally had a smaller 16′ version, dubbed the “Pierce Ponder” which I used to fish in lakes all over Maine and Vermont for 20 years before that . My grand laker probably should be green but it was left natural and has alternating red and white cedar on the outside which looks very beautfuland distinctive. The inside looks exceptional too partly because it has never been varnished, instead being treated on the inside with Watco Marine teak oil and recoated almost every year.
After several years in storage I recently trailered (I agree car tops don’t work) the boat to Montana where we now spend a lot of our fishing time and I plan to do some lake fishing in the area around Helena. These boats are so unique that a crowd gathered at each gas station fill up all across the country.
The only thing that might enhance your wonderful photo’s would be a picture with a 3# maine brookie on the floor in a net. I love my boat , can you tell !!!!!!!
Bamboo Addict | Sep 11, 2006 | Reply
Tom, as always you put me right there with your writing and pictures. I am so glad Nancy was at the helm and not you, I have seen you both in the control of water craft and you are a great writer leave the boat work to her. Just kidding (kinda). Really guys I think he fakes it in my boat so he can fish more. See ya when you get home.
David
Tom Chandler | Sep 11, 2006 | Reply
Moe
Thanks so much for weighing in about your Grand Laker. Let us know how it fishes in Helena. By “natural” finish, do you mean your fiberglass skin is a translucent tan color? That *would* be an interesting look.
I have some new pictures of the interior of the Grand Lakers here at camp (bailed the many, many gallons of water out of our “adventure” and removed the mats), which I’ll post later today or first thing tomorrow.
As for a big Maine Brookie, sadly none around here - at least none that anyone’s willing to tell me about.
There have been darkly veiled hints about some brookie ponds about 45 minutes from here (and I could throw a double-ender in the back of a pickup if I knew), but those seem to be primarily a springtime gig too.
Renee | Sep 28, 2006 | Reply
Hi,
Just stumbled across your article – awesome!
I own a Grand Laker –it is now about 46 years old and in excellent condition. I am currently looking to buy a new motor – currently have a 2 stroke and am looking to get a 4 stroke (9 HP) engine. I am glad to see that is what you have. Did you have to do any additional reinforcement to the canoe? Do you keep the engine on the canoe when you are not using the canoe for extended periods of time? As you can tell, I am a little concerned about the weight – current engine only weights about 50 pounds.
Thanks!
Tom Chandler | Sep 28, 2006 | Reply
Great to hear you’ve got a Grand Laker in such nice condition. They’re gorgeous boats.
As for the motors, pretty much all of the guides are using 9 hp and above, and I’m pretty sure I saw a couple using bigger motors (15 hp on one).
There were several different builders of the Grand Lake pattern, and it’s impossible for me to say whether your 1960 boat is strong enough, but I’m reasonably sure it would handle any 9 hp.
And yes, you definitely should take the motor off the stern for winter storage (a good time to make sure there hasn’t been any water penetration into the transom or dry rot).
But saying any more would transcend my actual knowledge. You could always contact Chris Wheaton at the Grand Lake Lodge in Maine and see what he says.
Bonnie Sprague Gagner | Oct 21, 2006 | Reply
I reallly enjoyed your article as I hail from a long line of Grand Laker craftsmen. My grandfather William Sprague built his own mold in the early 1920’s and continued until his death in 1969. My father “Sonny” Sprague continued with the Sprague Canoe Company until his death in 2001. There are several builders in GLS at present to include Chris Wheaton (Wheaton Canoe), Bill Shamel (Pop Moore Canoe)and Sam Sprague (Sprague Canoe). Most of the builders have gone to a fiberglass cover, but I prefer the original canvas cloth. I do not believe there has ever been a female builder, but I am Planning on giving it a go this winter.
Tom Chandler | Oct 22, 2006 | Reply
Bonnie! So glad you found us. I’m certainly familiar with the name Sonny Sprague - there are pictures of him all over the walls of Grand Lake Lodge.
Good luck with your canoe. Maybe report back from time to time. And I’d kill for some good pictures of the project while underway.
With a new baby in the family, I wonder if Chris Wheaton will get any canoes built this winter. When the L&T Nancy and I were out there in September, it didn’t look promising… 8-)
Just an FYI; the L&T Nancy’s mother is Judy Perry, and you doubtless know Nancy’s sister Lindsay Wheaton.
It’s just another day at the Underground - bringing the world together one wooden canoe at a time…
Martin Clark | Jan 4, 2007 | Reply
G’day from Brisbane, Australia.
The GRAND LAKER canoe’s are a brillant design and very pactical boat and I’d like to build one (around 20′long).
I’m LOOKING for PLANS to a GRAND LAKER, if anybody could help me, where i could purchase plans for a Grand Laker, I’d be most appreciative.
Living in Australia, we don’t have any boats similar to the Laker and I’ve searched the net for hours, looking for plans, without success.
My addy is a_aabra@hotmail.com cheers… Martin
Tom Chandler | Jan 4, 2007 | Reply
I’m sorry I don’t know of any plans. I believe that most current builders of Grand Lakers use a wooden form; after they’ve steamed the wood to soften it, they bend it over the form to acquire the canoe shape.
In addition, I think the current builders also learned the craft from fathers, relatives, etc., so I’m not sure if “plans” actually exist.
My only help here is for you to contact the owners of the Grand Lake Lodge (the husband is Chris Wheaton, one of the remaining builders of Grand Lake Canoes).
Perhaps he can help.
Bruce Sampson | Feb 8, 2007 | Reply
Sir;
We live along the canadian border in Minnesota where the lakes are large and rocky,much like those in you area.I have been interested in building my own Grand Laker but have also had a hard time finding plans.
At this time i am not sure if my skill as a woodworker is such that i would be able to build one so given that ,i am interested in finding someone who builds them.
I can get the phone # for Chris Wheaton off the internet but have been unable to find info for the sprague canoe co.
Owning one of these boats has been my dream since i saw one in a remote area of Canada while on a fishing trip with my parents about 40 plus years ago.In my view it is one of the classics where there is a perfect marriage of form and function.
Thank you
Bruce Sampson
Tom Chandler | Feb 8, 2007 | Reply
Bruce: I don’t know how to contact the Sprague folks. And I’m not sure how easy it is to build your own; these things are formed around wooden “molds” which make it possible to steam and bend the wood.
Given my utter lack of woodworking skills, I don’t know if you’d have to build your own mold first. If so, I imagine it would be a fair amount of work.
I’d give Wheaton a call (right now he’s out here) in a week or two. He might not be building this winter as he’s working on his house, but might know Sprague’s number - or even if someone’s selling a used Grand Laker.
Loren Sherman | May 16, 2007 | Reply
I am a Grand Laker builder in Michigan, so I guess that makes 3 builders instead of 2?. I acquired my form for the 19′ 10″ x 46″ Grand Laker from Horace Strong in Craftsbury, Vermont when he retired. I usually build one or two of these wonderfull canoes per year in my spare time. My email is magicanoe@yahoo.com I’m glad to see someone documenting the history of these unique and special boats. Thank you for your article!
Tom Chandler | May 16, 2007 | Reply
Loren: I’ve since discovered there are other builders outside the Grand Lake area (which is what I limited the builders comment to).
Send pictures if you get a chance.
Craig Woodruff | Jun 2, 2007 | Reply
Was pleasantly surprised with this article although the dates were a little off. The sqaure sterns were made earlier than the 50s. I am 4th generation Master Maine Guide and was pratically born and raised in a Grand-laker. My grandfather (Creston MacArthur Sr.)owned several square stern canoes from the late 30’s to early 40s which had canvas on them and one was a Sprague model. When growing up as a teen I use to help repair them and also helped my dad build them back in the 70s. I still have a Bacon mold, steam boxes, etc and am building a few for personal use only, but might plan to build more. I use to cut my own cedar and ash and build double ender lapstrips a few years back but my friend who I worked with, young George Perkins Jr., recently passed away. I still have several older canoes that need restoration, but never seems to be enough time to get at these timeless treasures. I have one that was the last canoe my dad and I made togther in the 70s. It was built over the top of another Grandlaker so the finished result was a wider beam and a canoe capable of carry lots of dunnage from our island camp and I can attest to it tranporting many deer on our hunts on the Grand Falls Flowage. I personally knew and highly respected many of the old-timers who crafted these canoes and so dearly miss them but treasure thier leagcy that they have passed on.
Tom Chandler | Jun 2, 2007 | Reply
Craig: The article doesn’t date the square stern, but says that Grand Lakers received their fiberglass skins and that the sterns were strengthened to accommodate bigger motors.
It doesn’t really speak to the advent of the square stern itself since I don’t know when it arrived on the scene.
I know that Chris Wheaton and his father also cut their own wood, and that Chris enjoyed working alongside his father, who passed away a few years ago.
gregg brooks | Jun 25, 2007 | Reply
Hello Tom, could you tell me if someone at Grand Lake Stream does repairs on a Grand Laker and could you give me a contact phone #? My Dad and I purchased a 20′ square stern Grand Laker about 45 years ago and still have it, but would like to have it fixed up a little. My Dad passed away a couple of years ago and I live in Connecticut, but will be coming to Robbinston in August. I certainly could drop it off for repairs in August and leave it until next summer. Also, are there any trailers for a Grand Laker available for sale? Thanks for any help you can provide. Gregg Brooks
Tom Chandler | Jun 25, 2007 | Reply
Gregg: Chris Wheaton — one of the builders of the Grand Lake Canoe — might be able to help, though it’s possible he doesn’t have much time for repairs.
He and his wife own Grand Lake Lodge in Maine. Good luck.
http://www.grandlakelodgemaine.com/
Loren Sherman | Jun 26, 2007 | Reply
If you were closer to Michigan I’d offer my services to you in refurbishing your Grand Laker. A closer alternitive is Brian Wilhelm in Cockeysville, Maryland has a great deal of experience repairing Grand Lakers. He can be reached by email at MDPaddler@aol.com
Hope this helps.
Loren Sherman
gregg brooks | Jun 28, 2007 | Reply
Hi Loren, thanks for your info. I’ll likely have someone at Grand Lake Stream do the repairs, as it will be more convenient for me. Hopefully, it will not be too costly. Again, thanks for your input. Gregg
joseph Chiappa | Jul 15, 2007 | Reply
my thoughts go back 40 years .i am now 84 and still think about the
wonderfull times at grand lake stream .i stoped by the lake a few years ago and did not know it .what changes ! iwonder if you have any pictures of the guides of that time . i would love to have a copy of them.
ithink there were great guys. i dont know how its done today but the
lunch we would stop for so many times my family has never has forgoten . and the fishing at that time was great from those canoes
that each guide made .i wish i could make one more trip like those.
thanks for reading… joseph m. chiappa
gregg brooks | Jul 15, 2007 | Reply
Hi Joe, I’m sorry, but I don’t have any photos of grand lake stream or the guides. I agree with you that it is a beautiful place and great fishing (the way life should be). I grew up in that area and I really miss the great outdoors and the people there. I hope you get a chance to visit there again. Best Wishes. Gregg
Tom Chandler | Jul 16, 2007 | Reply
Joe: I’m in Grand Lake Stream right now. I don’t have any pictures of the guides from 40 years from now, but will see if I can find any.
And of course, I plan to post all sorts of pictures of the place as it stands today.
Stay tuned…
joseph Chiappa | Jul 16, 2007 | Reply
gregg and tom,
thanks for the notes,,, iwill be checking the trout underground
tight lines
joe
Elizabeth Gaffy | Oct 1, 2007 | Reply
Hello my name is Elizabeth Gaffy from Bond University, Queensland.
I’m currently the Production Designer on a short film for Bond about the Solomon Islands. We have been looking around a great deal for a wooden canoe similar to the ones the villages on the Solomon Islands used around WW2. But at the moment we have extended our search and are looking for anything similar to them. Do you know anyone near Queensland that may hire or sell wooden canoes? As we are a small budget feature film, we don’t have enogh money to go buying ones that cost thousands of dollars, so any help you can give on anyone you know that will be willing to lend one to us for a few weeks will be greatly appreciated!!
Thankyou for taking the time to read this, if so could you reply back to me ASAP.
Sincerely, Elizabeth Gaffy
email: bundy88liz@hotmail.com
joseph Chiappa | Dec 9, 2007 | Reply
please note new e-mail …..
merry christmass lovers of grand laker’s
joseph Chiappa | Jan 25, 2008 | Reply
hi, tom greg
i have gone by my 84th but still think about my days on the
lake with the great guides. boy do i wish i could spend a day like
that again..
joseph chiappa
Fred Kircheis | Apr 24, 2008 | Reply
I have just been given a new, unfinished, strip build Grandlaker to finish off for the poor sole who began the project. The hull is complete, with transom, and completely fiberglassed (although the latter is not a professional job. I need to attach gunnels, deck, thwarts, seat, keel and keelson, and out side stem. Is there anyone who can tell me what is the desirable dimensions for the inwales and outwales; the placement locations for thwarts and seat; size of keel etc?
I would appreciate either a response through this site or a contact to a person who would be able and willing to help me out.
Thanks, Fred Kircheis
Carmel, Maine
Tom Chandler | Apr 24, 2008 | Reply
Fred; Sorry, I can’t be of any help. I just write about the things instead of building them.
Loren Sherman | Apr 24, 2008 | Reply
I like the inner gunnels to be 1 1/4″ square and outer gunnels 1 1/4″high x 1 1/2″wide to help keep spray out of the boat. You’ll want to make them beefy to add strength to the hull. The seat should be forward from the transom to allow you to operate the tiller without it hitting your waist or having to bend too far back. I put one thwart just behind the deck to add strength there. I put one amidships and one equally between the center thwart and the bow thwart. The last one goes equally between the center thwart and the front of the seat. BTW ‘Lakers usually only have 1 seat. The keel can be either a standard or a shoe keel. I prefer the shoe keel as it protects the bottom better and is less likely to hang up on something under the water.
Loren
Fred Kircheis | Apr 25, 2008 | Reply
Thanks for your help, Loren ! I think I have most of what I need now to get started on finishing this boat. What is the length of the middle thwart that you use? Given the flexibility of the hull I have there is a lot of flop amidships and the width of the middle thwart will dictate the shape of the whole boat. You suggested I might wish to consider bilge keels. What would be their dimensions and location if I decide to do so?
Appreciate your help !
Fred Kircheis
Tom Chandler | Apr 25, 2008 | Reply
Loren: Thanks for stepping in with the info.
And Fred, send us a picture when you’re done with the thing.
Julia | May 11, 2008 | Reply
Mr. Woodruff…are you referring to George S. Perkins, Jr. of Burnham, Maine and Orlando, FL?
If so, could you please contact me by email?
Thanks!
angels@me.acadia.net